KL's Travelogue: 20120216 Granada

It was right, outside Madrid is more Spanish. Sceneries are much better. Immense field of olive plants, mountains... but no jungle, is that the outcome of development? Castle on the hilltop, villages in the simplicity design dotted sporadically.

Upon arrival, the city bus driver dropped me at the wrong place (communication breakdown). I walked a long way to Oasis Backpacker Hostel. It was a real hub for hippie's type backpackers, tucked into a narrow alley of Moroccan’s congregation, familiar Arabic aroma filled the air, crammed along with foreign (mostly Africans’) souvenir shops and restaurants.

Many Africans origins were seen in Granada due to its geographical and historical factors neighbouring to Africa continent. I had Tajin chicken and cold tomato soup for my dinner.

Muslim took over Granada from Visigoths in 711AD. After the fall of Cordoba (1236) and Sevilla (1248), Muslims sought refuge here. It became one of the richest cities in medieval Europe, until being besieged by Christian armies in 1491. During this period the imposing Alhambra palace had been the administrative center.

Stretched along the hilltop of La Sabika, Alhambra comprised of palaces, fortress, church, convent, garden and etc. Palacio de Carlos V (Palace of Charles V) is a stylistic Renaissance square building with circular 2 tiered courtyard of 32 columns. The 2 residing museums housed the precious Islamic artefacts and Granada related paintings and sculptures. My favourite Palacio Nazaries is Alhambra’s true gem, mesmerized by the richly decorated Islamic symbolic and geometrical patterns. The tourist flow was so high that interval control/ visit was implemented. In contrast the Alcazaba (citadel) is bare and plain, the imposing structure and the best viewpoint from Torre de la Vela are grand. Rest of the sights such as Generalife and iglesia are less attractive.

After visiting the boring Royal Chapel, I decided to stop visiting churches for a while. Instead, with a Japanese acquaintance, we hopped from one bar to another café to savour the tapas. In Andalucia, small portion of tapas is served for free with each order of beer or wine (EUR1.50 - 2.50). It was fun, we never know what we would be served (because we didn’t understand Spanish).

Flamenco show doesn’t come cheap. Recommended by a local, we watched a performance at a local pub. It was held inside the cellar and fully packed. The first 2 songs I had no hint if they were good, the 3rd song was getting easier, guitarist was excellent. The last solo dancing was absolutely enchanting.

On the hill facing Alhmabra, it is Granada’s old Muslim quarter – the Albayzin. Many huge mansions found a place here along the cobblestone streets up the hill. Mirador San Nicolas is a wonderful spot for sunset view overlooking the entire Alhambra. Many locals and tourists hiked up to here in the evening, Gypsies were performing for gratuity.

Further down, hiked to Sacromonte where the Gypsy village was. Up that hill, a wall separated the upper class residential area from the poor village. Judging the safety in the area, I dared not to venture further. A few squatters were built inside "caves", other shelters are patching of various materials.