3.5 hr bus journey to Salamanca, not
torturing but rather uncomfortable, because someone vomited near to my seat and
the foul smell was unpleasant.
At Salamanca bus station, the information
desk lady replied “no”s to all my questions. Was a bit annoyed… I walked to the
center, but tourist office was close for siesta. I was lucky enough to find a
very cheap and clean hostel room.
The founding of the university in 1218
had changed the fate of Salamanca. It became the Oxford equivalent institution
then and attracted the richest artistry activities. Throughout the 20th
century, especially during the Civil War and the 4 decades of Franco’s rule
that follow, Salamanca’s university became the centre for liberal resistance to
fascism. It’s still the home to massive Spanish and international students
nowadays.
Salamanca is indeed a beautiful city. Its
rare architecture splendour, graciously integrated the buildings together. At
night the atmosphere was cheered up lively by the student crowds. Some dressed
up theatrically like attending a masquerade. The floodlit Plaza Mayor presented
magical effect. Poor students can’t afford to drink here, so sit in jovial
huddles on the ground.
The backache woke me up in the 1st
night, not acute but I hardly could walk. The thought of bacteria infection in
my kidney haunted me. Couldn't sleep, couldn't pass motion. I packed all my clothes,
leaned against the heater, ready to go to hospital. Luckily the pain vanished
after 1/2 hour. Might be dehydrated, might be muscle strained because of
improper sleeping position, I had no clue but it didn’t recur the next days.
The exterior of Convento de San Estaban,
Universidad Civil and Catedral Nueva were richly decorated. The stonemasons
chiselled lots of biblical, fauna and flora figures on them. They added a frog
on Universidad Civil and an astronaut on Catedral Nueva. Spotting these 2 had
been fun to tourists.
The history of Universidad Civil was the
element attracting the visitors, physically the display of the presently unused
lecture halls and the University library lack the charms. The New Cathedral
(free) was imposing but not impressive. I skipped the old cathedral.
My pick in Salamanca was the rather
smallish Museo de Art Nouveau y Art Deco. It housed several paintings of Lagar,
quite good, mainly the clown series. There was another painting depicting a boy
in checker shirt attracted me. Several sculptures were interesting. Lacking of
English description was the minus aspect.
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| Convento de San Esteban. |
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| Convento de San Esteban, complicated carvings. |
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| Plaza Mayor at night. |
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| Universidad Civil, facade. |
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| Universidad Civil, ceiling. |
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| Universidad Civil, Escalera de la Universidad (staircase). |
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| Universidad Civil, university library. |
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| Universidad Civil, university library. |
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| Catedral Nueva. |
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| Catedral Nueva, carvings. |
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| Catedral Nueva, ceiling. |
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| Catedral Nueva, astronaut was chiselled into the portal during restoration. |
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| Plaza Mayor. |
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| Tea time at cafe in Plaza Mayor. |
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| Plaza Mayor. |
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| Plaza Mayor, students threw themselves on the ground. |
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| Plaza Mayor, cafe. |
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| An elegant building in town. |
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| UNESCO heritage. |
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| Like this small town. |